Nubra...

I didnt actually leave today again from Manali...motorcycle repairs...so im stuck here one more day...

Id like to jump back a couple hours. On the way to Nubra signs that led me to Diskit actually led me to a checkpoint which a soldier claimed was the last before China. He told me to turn back -- Diskit was the other way, and the signs are misleading. Upon entering the Valley I was stunned by the picture before me: plains of sand for miles and miles, bordered by majestic hills backed by gigantic himalayan mountaines topped by a perfectly blue 5PM sky and a setting sun.

After eating we talked with the owner of the Organic Garden who happens to also be a doctor and he explained just how freezing cold it is in Ladakh during the winter and what actually goes on: nothing. Everybody stays indoors most of the time, sitting around a fire, the women sowing and the men drinking and playing cards. It can get boring, and showers are not taken. Apparently nobody gets dirty because the whole body is entirely covered with layers and layers of clothing all the time, therefore "not even one speck of dust can get in." Not exactly where I want to spend my Christmas vacation. After dinner I stayed up late with the Austrians, talking about Austria. She works for a NGO and he likes to mountain climb and has only recently "found nature."

In the morning I met Joanna at the Diskit Gompa. The monastery is hundreds of years old and is built into the side of a mountain. A road leads up to the entrance and stairs lead to the different stories, or levels. We saw some old Buddhist relics, artwork and religious pieces, most of it quite flimsy looking and lacking the impressive flamboyance of say, the Vatican. But this is Buddhism, a religioun that renounces the material world, not much emphasis placed on religious art. Some monks in red sat and drank Chai and Joanna took some pics. We left after an hour and some spiritual awakening. Theres lots of pictures of the Dalai Lama everywhere.

I followed Joanna's jeep with the couple and their guide to the other side of Nubra Valley for what I thought would be a day trip. We visited a few monasteries that day, a secret hidden lake in the center of a small mountain which the Ladakhys claim you can look into and see visual renderings of important events/people (like the Dalai Lama for instance). Joanna rode with me and took some awesome videos which I need to get from her. We visited Hot Springs in Panamik which were nothing more then a few rusted drains spurting luke warm sulphur water and small enclosed bath with discraded razor blades. With the sun setting I realized I wasnt going back to Hundar (1.5 hour ride) and stayed in a guesthouse in Sumur with the Spaniards. Dinner was set menu made of ingredients again grown in the actual gueshouse yard: aloo gobi, rice, chapati, veggies etc. Afterwards we drank beer with two Cambridge girls who could not be more out of place then they were now in tights, leg warmers, posh cashmere sweaters and fully made-up faces and hair. But we had a nice conversation and passed out.

In the morning Joanna and the couple rode back to Leh, all three of them feeling sick from the heights, and I returned to Hundar. On the way I stopped in the Diskit sand dunes and patted a bizarre two-humped desert camel that was apparently brought from China years and years ago. I declined a ride, having been warned about the slowness of the camels walk. I got to Hundar and moved to the Organic Garden guesthouse and took a bed in a well set-up and comfortable two person tent. Dinner again in the OG with the multicultural pack. Tomorrow we were going to see the Dalai Lama arrive for his first visit to the Diskit Gompa in two years.

In the morning the whole crew left early to walk the two hours to Diskit. I stayed back, read and enjoyed the glorious weather. I heard the DL was arriving at 3pm only so I left at 130 and reached the Gompa by two: just in time. The group had been waiting for hours along with the throng of Buddhist in traditional clothing waiting enthusiastically for their leader holding various incense, flowers and prayer beads. Everytime the crowd would rise for DL false alarms. I saw Nuchum the rabbinical student from the Jewish house in Leh. He had also made the trip to Nubra, but he specifically to see the DL. I had no idea the DL was coming until I got there. As I spoke to him about the similarities between the Jewish and Budhhist faiths, the whole DL entourage passed by us and we caught a quick glimpse of the DL. Thats it? We were to see more of him tomorrow. I ate lunch as the crowd dispersed and bought a Tibetan necklace as a gift and a Tibetan bracelet for myself.

That night at the Organic Garden I learned that the older Italian in our crew actually owns a small organic vegetarian restuarant in the heart of Rome and we talked shop into the wee hours. He says he works hard 14 hour days and needed a long vacation, so he closed the restaurant for a year to travel in India.

In the morning we all again went to Diskit, I took my bags with me as I was going to leave back to Leh after the morning teaching. Everybody from every where came with their dark black and brown robes, curved up costume shoes, prayer beads and incense and sat under awnings listening to the DL. I watched for 20 minutes, felt the closeness of the DL, had a girl take a pic to send me later, and after searching out an area with an English translation that didnt exist, left. I drove back to Leh and the ride was amazing.

In Leh I spent one day organizing my things to leave Leh back to Manali. I walked around and said goodbyes to the diffferent cafe and restuarant workers I had met. Olik and his friends returned from a bike trip cut short to Pangong and Olik tried to convince me to stay just a few more days. But I had been in Ladakh for a month and now it was time to go.